The Trolls Pantry burger review

Review of The Troll’s Pantry, Brighton

Something wonderful happens each Friday in Brighton; street food is brought to the masses in the form of the Street Diner in Brighthelm Garden on Queens Road. Between 11am and 3pm, punters can get their hands on everything from brownies to paella. And burgers. Which is exactly why I went there.

Down in Brighton for a geeky digital marketing conference with my colleagues, clients and Sean (yes – we both work in the same industry), it would’ve been a crime to miss out on the local food offerings, especially with some of the stallholders who frequent the diner.

I had my mind firmly set on getting a Troll’s Pantry burger before we’d even reached the M25 from Oxford. A little bit greedy of me considering we were going to Meat Liquor for dinner that night, and I already knew I wanted another burger for lunch the next day. But with the excuse of “research”, I figured a couple of burgers over two days wouldn’t be the end of the world for my waistline.

So when Friday lunchtime finally rolled around, I couldn’t get to the Street Diner quick enough. I didn’t want to miss out on the burgers I’d already heard such good things about; I had no idea whether there would be limited stock, and the weather was behaving so more people were out and about.

Luckily I got to the stall and found that burgers were still being prepped, cooked and served. There were three burgers to choose from; it took longer to decide than it should have because they all sounded delicious in their own right.

Troll's Pantry burger griddle Brighton

I ended up choosing the Woodland burger, which promised a flavour mix of an aged beef patty, mushroom relish, Kentish cobnut oil mayo, oak smoked bacon, smoked foresters cheese, and wild garlic salad. I ordered burgers for my colleague and Sean before we all stood and watched them being cooked and put together in front of us.

Burger preparation at The Trolls Pantry

It was handed to me wrapped in paper and I couldn’t wait to sit on the grass and open it up. Seeing the fresh ingredients put together into the beautiful bun was more than enough to get me excited for my lunch.

The Trolls Pantry at Street Diner Brighton

Peeling back the paper I revealed the burger in its full glory. I forced myself to take a couple of photos before I tucked in, just so you could see it for yourself:

Woodland burger at The Trolls Pantry

Woodland burger at The Troll's Pantry, Brighton

The earthy flavours of this burger were rich and wonderful. It was a rare burger that had me saying “mmmm” between each mouthful. All the elements worked in perfect harmony, and I admitted at the time that it’s one of the best burgers I’ve ever eaten! Huge respect for these guys as they definitely make their burgers with love.


I have to admit to having an initial shock when we walked up to Troll’s Pantry and seeing that their burgers were priced at £8/£9 each. However, after hearing some pretty good things about them, I was more than willing to splash the cash in the name of “research”.

Troll's Pantry Menu

And how glad I was that I did. After trying some pretty souless, tastless burgers recently, visiting Troll’s Pantry was an absolute treat for the taste palette.

I selected the Paladin burger, which was topped with smoked garlic mayo, St. Giles cheese, pickled onion, salad and tomato. The first thing I noticed was just how earthy and beefy the burger meat tasted. In comparison to somewhere like Handmade Burger Co., it was clear that Troll’s were using patties of the highest quality.

Paladin Burger - Troll's Pantry

Along with real cheese and crisp, fresh salad ingredients, this was a burger which I had absolutely no problem with finishing off, and was left still wanting more.

Watching the guys prepare our burgers was probably the best part of the Troll’s Pantry experience – real care and attention to detail went into putting them together. It’s obvious that they are really passionate about providing burgers that their customers are going to rave about. It’s certainly working.

Check them out as soon as you get the chance.

Review information

The Troll’s Pantry can be found at Brighthelm Garden, Queens Road, Brighton, BN1 1YD on Fridays only. This review took place on 12/04/15.

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Hannah Butcher

Hannah writes here at Beers and Burgers to spread her love of food and drink with the masses.

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